Wednesday, May 30, 2012

Never travel without a towel


Greetings from Kisumu y’all! As of right now, I have been in the city for a few days. We arrived Monday night to our homestays. The flights were fine other than long. Though, if you are following international news (or at least Kenya related news. I know some of the more worried readers are), you may have seen that a building exploded in Nairobi. I saw it on the TV when we walked off the plane. At the time, they were insisting it was not a terrorist attack, but instead an electrical fault. I could see the smoke from the building as we flew over Nairobi on the way to Kisumu. By the time we arrived at our homestays, the stories had changed to be in more support of a terrorist attack.

Welcome back.


Here, in Kisumu, there is far less of a chance of such an attack, so don’t panic people.  I already like my homestay family. There’s my mom, Joy, an employee of KMET in the HIV section. Her daughter, Wendy, is 12 and reminds me of a quieter version of Stacey (see last trip's posts). Her son, Kim, is 8 and spent the first hour and a half hiding from me. He emerged when I gave them the giant bag of Hershey kisses as a gift. It was as much of a hit as last time, though instead of hiding the bag, there paraded their neighbors through the house to get some chocolate. I cannot remember the names of everyone I met, which is going to be super awkward later.

Jamaa yangu

The actual house is much smaller than my Nairobi home. There is a small kitchen, a living room, and two bedrooms, one of which is mine. It has a window facing the narrow outdoor- corridor that leads to the front door.  I was asking the kids about the room and why they are giving it up for me. I didn’t think that seemed fair, even though Joy insisted. Wendy explained, however, that although it is technically their room, they never sleep there. The window scares them. Slept there the last two nights and it seemed ok. I’ll let you know if the window starts attacking though.

The house has no running water. The “shower” is a bucket in a little outdoor shed. The bathroom is a pit latrine about a three minutes walk from the house. I am not allowed to go there by myself at night for safety reasons. I expected to not be allowed out at night, but I didn’t take into account a situation like this. It’s quite the change from Nairobi, where there was a hot water shower, sinks, and a toilet. Challenge accepted though.

The family still won’t let me help cook or clean or do much else for myself, as expected. I made my aunt (I think she is my homestay-aunt) promise to let me cook tonight. But we’ll see. I can’t just casually start doing the dishes like in Nairobi without running water, so sneaky helping-out isn’t as easy.

During the day, my room is shared with Lydia, the maid’s daughter. Lydia has cerebral palsy and cannot walk. Her mother lays a towel down of the floor and rests her there for the day. Disability is handled a bit differently here. Definitely more of an out of sight, out of mind approach.  

Today we got our orientation at KMET. The few staff who know me keep introducing me as “Emily, the one who knows Swahili”, which is terrible because now they expect me to actually know Swahili.  I can mostly just apologize for not understanding what they are saying. Apart from fudging their language, I’ll probably be working with their nutrition program. More on that later once I start.

It feels like I never left this country. Kisumu is different from Nairobi, but in many ways the same. It’s nice not to have the panic I first felt in the fall. 

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