I’m back!
Sunday
Left Nairobi early to drive across the border into Tanzania. The place we stayed is called the United Africa Alliance Community Center (UAACC). Mzee Pete O’Neil owns and runs this little compound on the outskirts of Arusha. Mzee Pete used to live in Kansas City and was a Black Panther. He was exiled and left the US with his wife Charlotte. After moving around a bit, they settled in Tanzania. We watched A Panther in Africa, a documentary about Mzee. In the video they showed clips from when he was fully active in the Black Panther Party. He went from what he even agrees was a crazy radical to one of the most chill people ever. That’s what Africa does to you.
Monday
We didn't stay at UAACC for long. The next morning we drove out to a Maasai village in the middle of no where. You know the scene in the Lion King when Simba passes out and Timone and Pumba find him? That background landscape is as close to Maasai land as I can explain. It’s dry, sandy, and covered in Acacia trees and bushes, which are dry, stick like plant covered in thorns as long as your fingers. They poke through sneakers and the floors of tents and catch your skirt if you walk too close. When we got off the bus, we were each given a bag of maize flour to bring to the maasai women who had gathered to greet us. We were either going to be greeted with “Supai” and respond “ipa” or with “ta kwenya” and respond “iko”.
So, how to greet Maasai: Upon approaching one, assuming they are your elder, bow your head. They will place a hand on your head and say one of the greetings. The Maasai kids would do the same to us, only half the time we wouldn’t notice or forget. They wouldn’t leave until they go a head pat and would follow you, head bowed, if you walked away.
When we greeted the line of women, they had a ball quizzing us on the greetings, but I don’t think any of them said “Supai” or “ta kwenya”. If you responded incorrectly, they just held your head until you got it right. If you responded correctly, the mamas would cheer and clap.
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| making a toothbrush |
After that, we took a walk to see the trees and bushes used for medicines and such. For example, the toothbrush tree, also known as the ezilalei tree. The break off branches and split the ends using a machete. It actually words really well, minus the usually minty freshness. It tastes more like a stick. We also learned that some acacia thorns were poisonous and could be identified by their green color. After the nature walk, we visited two bomas, or Maasai villages. The houses were made from dirt and dried cow dung (didn’t smell inside). There were also goats EVERYWHERE. It is not an exaggeration to say that the goats far outnumbered the humans. The walk concluded with a cup of really bitter tea that we all shared, but it was so strong that no one wanted more than one sip.
That night there we collected firewood and had a campfire. The village elders came to speak with us and we were allowed to ask them questions. Things we learned: new warrior groups occur every 7 years and initiation typically occurs around the age of 14. The boys are taught how to care for cattle and are then circumcised (ow) to complete the ceremony. Marriages are arranged and the couple is usually under the age of 20. The Maasai had been in that area for a couple of hundred years by their math. The elders then asked us their own questions, “How long does it take to get to Tanzania from America by car?”, “Are your husbands paying for your education?” “Are marriages arranged in America?”
A goat-themed Tuesday
We woke up at 5:30 to see the sunrise. It was awesome.
Afterwards, we got to try to milk a goat. We entered the boma in single filed to be quizzed on greetings again by one of the mamas.
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| Milking a goat |
There really must be a better spot to milk a goat from, but I wasn’t going to question the Maasai.
Right after milk a goat, we had a meeting to discuss the main event for the day: a goat sacrifice. Not my cup of tea, and still isn’t, but this is really the only time in my life I will probably live with the Maasai, and when in Maasai land, do as the Maasai do. I went with the group of students to collect the leaves for the goat’s sacrifice bed before heading to the sacrifice site.
I’ll spare you the details. Know that the goat had a good last meal of the leaves we had collected for its bed and was suffocated rather than slaughter. I don’t think it’s much better, but it seemed more peaceful. The Maasai then used every part of the goat. They made a stew with the organs, cooked the meat, and drank the blood.
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| Maasai? |
Next was arts and crafts with the Maasai mamas. Much less gruesome. We made bracelets for each other. My mama laughed at the string of beads I tied around her wrist, but I didn’t see anything wrong with it. It was almost identical to the one she gave me. Sijui (I don’t know).
That night was our last night in the village. We trekked through the dark to the nearest boma. A little Maasai boy named Jeramia held my hand on the way so that I would run into acacia bushes. We were able to chat in Kiswahili since both of us had learned it in school and both of us are pretty bad at it. Once we were at the boma, the Maasai performed a traditional song and dance. It was so cool sounding. In the middle of the dance, the Maasai men would jump. It was meant to be a display of strength, and judging by how high they were able to get they must have been pretty strong. We could not get pictures as it was too dark, but here a cool depiction of it.
They tried to get out two guys on the trip to jump too. I think there’s some basketball movie that goes with their performance…
Wednesday
We left the Maasai village to go to our next site. We were visiting the last hunting and gathering group in Tanzania. It was about 5 hours away on a very dusty and bumpy road. Even with the windows closed, the dust still got in to the safari cars. The actual visit was a little strange. It was the first rural visit we had done that was actually geared to tourists, complete with tour guides. But we got to shoot a bow and arrow, so it was still kind of cool. Judging by my archery abilities, if I had to live as a hunter, I would probably die of starvation.
Three hours back to a new camp site on the same road. But we go a shower, so it was worth it.
Thursday
COOLEST DAY EVER. We drove to the Ngorongoro Crater for safari. While the day before we kind of touristy, this was a cool kind of touristy. The crater was beautiful and full of animals that just lived there. Pictures will work better here.
Back to UAACC for the night. We watch Inside Job, a documentary narrated by Matt Damon, just to update ourselves on what’s going on at home in the states.
Friday
We visited the International Criminal Tribunal in Arusha, the building where the Rwanda genocide criminals are being tried. While it was cool, our tour was canceled and instead we we put in a board room to watch a video on the ICT. The day before I had just finished reading We Wish to Inform You that Tomorrow we Will be Killed with Our Familes, a book about the Rwandan genocide, so I was slightly disappointed in the ICT presentation. But life goes on.
The afternoon started out as a shopping trip in Arusha, but ended with a swim. About a half hour in the skies opened up and it became to pour. Hard. The streets became a river and shops had to bail water out using jugs. Despite the flood, we still needed to get back to our bus. So, three other students and I braved the knee-deep waters. The shop keepers and customers laughed and shouted motivational words to us as we waded, but it wasn’t uncomfortable. Typically, we hate getting stared and shouted at here, but today we were the entertainment. And it was fun. We were wet and cold, but laughing.
Saturday
Today, I climbed Mount Kilimanjaro.
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| This is where we climbed to |
Ok, not really. But we did hike up to the first recognized peek. And we did it in under the estimated three hours. Our guide was actually the man who hold the record for the fast climb and descent of the mountain, clocking in at 14 hours and 50 minutes. Usually, the entire mountain takes five days. Impressive. Sadly, the peek we climbed to had almost no view. Just have to come back and climb the whole thing then.
Back at UAACC, Mzee Pete organized a good-bye wine tasting. I have never been to a wine tasting, mostly because my trip to Kenya/ Tanzania is the first time I’m legal. The wine was made by a former SIT student and were interesting flavors like pineapple, plum, and raspberry. Of course, a wine tasting for a bunch of 20 and 21 year old Americans obviously ends up as a dance party. But dancing helped with the soreness from the hike, so it’s completely justified.
Sunday
Back to Kenya, with ISP starting the next day. I am currently writing to you from the apartment I’m living in during ISP. It’s pretty.
Also, a large part of this post is in white. I'm not sure why, and I can't fix it. Sorry about that.
